Sustainability is no longer a niche conversation in the fashion and textile world, it’s become a core concern. Nearly every player in the sector is now talking about eco-friendly practices, from reducing water usage to cutting carbon emissions. And yet, the industry continues to struggle with one of the most pressing challenges of our time: fast fashion.
But sustainability in fashion isn’t only about using recycled fabrics or switching to organic cotton. To truly understand where we’re headed, we must examine where we’ve been.
The Industrial Revolution marked a major shift. With mass production came overconsumption and human rights abuses. After World War II, consumer culture blossomed in the West. “The more, the better” became a guiding principle, fueling a system where constant novelty equaled success. While environmental movements began to form in parallel, their impact on fashion was limited.
Globalization changed everything. In 1973, quotas were introduced to protect U.S. domestic clothing production. But by the time these ended in 2005, manufacturing had already shifted to countries like Cambodia and Vietnam, where wages were lower and regulations weaker. Major brands, chasing profit margins, offshored production, creating an illusion of cheap clothing by externalizing social and environmental costs.
This disconnect led to scandals, Nike in 1991, Rana Plaza in 2013, that forced consumers and corporations to confront the hidden costs of fashion. Tragedies like Rana Plaza, which killed 1,134 workers, catalyzed global outrage and became turning points in public awareness.
Technology is now playing a key role in addressing sustainability goals. Innovations in fiber and textile production offer promising alternatives, but we must be cautious not to oversimplify the narrative. Synthetic fibers are often demonized, and natural fibers idealized but cotton, for example, can require up to 3,800 liters of water per kilogram, far more than polyester. A truly sustainable approach means evaluating fibers not only for renewability or biodegradability, but also for water usage, chemical input, energy needs, carbon footprint, and, most importantly, social impact.
We must move beyond labels and buzzwords. Sustainable fashion is not a technical fix; it’s a systemic rethinking. It demands a shift in values from speed to care, from volume to longevity, from individualism to shared responsibility.
The fashion industry has a deep and complex legacy. But history also gives us tools to see more clearly. It reminds us that awareness can lead to action and that business as usual is no longer an option.
The journey towards sustainable fashion is neither quick nor easy but it is essential. From historical injustices to current environmental crises, the textile industry carries a complex legacy that demands conscious transformation. Moving forward, collaboration between brands, consumers, and policymakers will be vital. Only by acknowledging the true cost of clothing and embracing responsible innovation can the fashion industry shift toward a truly sustainable future.
If we want to clothe the planet responsibly, we must look past the tags and trends. We need to ask: What kind of future are we weaving?
Prof. Dr. Hale Karakaş
İstanbul Technical University
Faculty of Textile Technologies, Textile Engineering Department.